I start off with 4/4 S3S Poplar boards. 4/4 means they are 1" (13/16" in actuality) and S3S stands for Surfaced 3 Sides. This leaves one rough sawn edge. I use 1/2" birch plywood for the playing surface.
After cutting the boards on the table saw to rough dimensions, I run them through the jointer to square the sides with the faces. Then its several passes through the planer to reach 3/4" thickness. I then return to the table saw to rip them to their final width.
Accurately cutting your stock is key. I use a double-ground solid aluminum Master Plate and a digital protractor to ensure a square cut, and a digital "angle cube" for perfect 45 degree angles.
After much trial and error, I finally found made the right template for the legs. The angle on the bottom stays flat on the ground while bringing the height of the back of the board to 12", required for a tournament approved board. I use the bandsaw to cut the round top, and finish it off at the drill press with sanding drum.
Once the corners are cut on the side pieces, I use stacked dado blades to cut a 3/8 x 1/2 rabbet. This allows the plywood top to sit down inside the case. This hides the "plys" and makes the board much stronger and less prone to twisting.
After gluing up the frame, I glue and brad the top down. Using a 6" hole saw I cut out the 3-point hole.
After finish sanding & applying primer, I tape off the areas for the logos and spray the main color.
I then use a craft knife to cut out the logo, and paint some more.
After much more painting and touch-ups, they are sprayed with 3 coats of gloss clear water based acrylic.
The next steps are to cut the holes for the buckling straps and carrying straps. (Pictures to follow)
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